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Monday 8th July Ref: 2019/17
Today we cruised from Workum to Makkum.
The nearest bridges, of Noarderbrege and Sudergoabreg could be negotiated satisfactorily but once we turned into the Workumer Trekfeart, in a convoy of four boats, it was after midday before we arrived at the Nijhuizumerbrug. By this time, the bridge was showing two red lights and had closed or ‘paused’ for lunch for an hour from noon until 1pm. After this delay, we continued through the Workumer Trekfeart and then we turned into the Van Panhuykanaal at Tjerweed. Finally, we passed the Allingawiesterbrug and Hemmens Brege bridges, before approaching the Vallaatsbrug bridge and Schutsluis in Makkum.This latter sluis, or lock, was just wide enough to take both Ikon and Lady Martina alongside but not long enough to accommodate any others.
We had a good night at Kuperus Yacht Haven at Workum, but the wind got up with the rain falling heavily during the night and there were still occasional showers this morning, when I first woke up and started work. Chris Cole had problems aboard Ikon, where their main access stairs into the saloon had come loose again and so they wanted to cycle off into Workum to get some bolts and spare parts to fix it permanently. This meant that it was 11:45am local time before we started our engines and set off.
The nearest bridges, of Noarderbrege and Sudergoabreg could be negotiated satisfactorily but once we turned into the Workumer Trekfeart, in a convoy of four boats, it was after midday before we arrived at the Nijhuizumerbrug. By this time, the bridge was showing two red lights and had closed or ‘paused’ for lunch for an hour from noon until 1pm. We moored up and Ikon moored behind us and then two other boats came alongside as we waited for nearly an hour. I used the time to research the details in ANWB Book 2 and to brief my neighbouring boat on its use for revealing the bridge opening and closing times. In this case, our bridge number 281 came under the Friesland region and was listed as being subject to ‘pauses’ during the day. Because there was nothing special about bridge 281, the pauses with a standard time of 12 noon to 1.00pm and so we should have been aware and could have avoided this delay if we were more organised.
The convoy then continued through the Workumer Trekfeart and then we turned into the Van Panhuykanaal at Tjerweed which was a sharp turn which I misjudged and grounded my starboard prop before quickly putting the drive into neutral and using the bow thruster instead. As we cruised along the Van Panhuykanaal, we saw two Roe deer grazing a mile away on the port side. Then we passed the Allingawiesterbrug and Hemmens Brege bridges, before approaching the Vallaatsbrug bridge and Schutsluis in Makkum.
This latter sluis, or lock, was just wide enough to take both Ikon and Lady Martina alongside but not long enough to accommodate any others. Even so, this space narrowed at the exit and so, when the exit gates were opened, we had to perform some tight choreography. I first took Lady Martina astern, and Ikon then went forward and out and then I slewed Lady Martina sideways and forward using left throttle and left bow-thrust ; the accomplishment of which drew applause from the watching crowd; firstly when we left the sluis and secondly when I performed a theatrical bow in acknowledgement.
We then cruised along the Makkumer Dijp until turning into the Fiskers Haven, where we moored in boxes at Gebr.Van Enkhuizen after some difficulty in finding the place and then coping with the wind. We chose to moor Lady Martina bow into the wind, and we were sheltered. After some time adjusting our ladder and binding we had access to the shore via our port bow.
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Wednesday 10th July Ref: 2019/18
As an Ijsselmeer passage was in prospect with slight rain falling with a moderate breeze, I took time to check the engine oil and water levels of Lady Martina’s s so as to take no chances. I therefore brought the bicycles in strap them securely down, we got all the fenders onto the decks and then closed all windows.
When underway, and moving away from Gebr. Van Enkhuisen, and into the Makkummer Djip we could see the open Ijsselmeer ahead of us with white horses forming on the top of the waves. but these were only in the very shallow margins of the mere but there was still a stiff 8 to 10 knot southerly breeze against the 1 to 2 knot out going river flow which was uncomfortable when we were cruising north-west out of the Makkummer channel with that wind on our port beam.
Once we had turned south, it was a slight sea. Within an hour, we had skirted the Workum Channel buoys and were arriving on exactly the right bearing into the Hindeloopen channel. We moored up in the old Hylper Haven area with the aid of the harbourmaster.
I had been doing some essential and overdue writing this morning, since about 7am, and then, having called Kathleen at 9am and sat together until nearly 10am, I was not really ready to prepare Lady Martina for another sea trip. I was also hungry and so Kathleen to make us both some porridge for breakfast, which we were enjoying when the others were ready to go. Once that was finished, I felt it necessary to check the oil and water levels of Lady Martina’s engines so as to take no chances. The slight rain was falling with a moderate breeze and, as I had said in my morning radio message to Chris on Ikon, you cannot take the IJsselmeer for granted and we would not have been able to cater whilst underway.
I therefore brought the bicycles in strap them securely down, we got all the fenders onto the decks and then closed all windows. When underway, and moving away from Gebr. Van Enkhuisen, and into the Makkummer Djip we could see the open Ijsselmeer ahead of us with white horses forming on the top of the waves. Once we got there, it became apparent that these white horses were only in the very shallow margins of the mere but there was still a nasty 8 to 10 knot southerly wind against the 1 to 2 not out going river flow which was uncomfortable when we were cruising north-west out of the Makkummer channel with that wind on our port beam.
Once we had turned south, it was a slight sea, though I could see Ikon behind me riding up and down into the waves. Within an hour, we had skirted the Workum Channel buoys and were arriving on exactly the right bearing into the Hindeloopen channel. We cruised into the old Hylper Haven area, where I waited a while until we were in contact with the harbourmaster who directed to some birds alongside the lifeboats, where Ikon and ourselves could moor together.
We were bow to shore with a relatively short landing stage and so it took me some time to get Lady Martina moored safely and securely by which time everyone else, including Kathleen, were anxious to start drinking tea and eating lunch but I wisely took my time and eventually had everything shipshape such that we could leave Lady Martina and go on to Ikon.
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Thursday 11th July Ref: 2019/19
Today, we set off on a slow cruise south-east down the Ijsselmeer from Hinderloopen to Enjhuizen. We re-passed the Hinderloopen entrance and then that of Stavoren harbour; running the gauntlet of its fishermen’s marker buoys before skirting the Vrouwezand sandbanks and approaching Enkhuizen along the leading line and buoyed channel. A radio call on VHF 12 resulted in the lady manually rising the Drommedaris bridge so that we could moor in our favourite Oude Haven.
Kathleen and I first made a shore visit to buy the donkey cuddly ‘Eeyore’ from ‘Knuffels Handmade’ in a display that is normally put out in a basket by the road. We also bought some groceries, which included four fine croissants, which we ate once back on board.
As predicted in the detailed weather forecasts, the rain eased later in the morning as we prepared to set off at 10:45am and then had all but stopped during our three hour cruise to Enkhuizen. During this cruise we first set off North-North-West out of the Hindeloopen buoyed channel and then turned South with the slight breeze behind us, skirting the channel buoys of Stavoren and dodging the many fishing marks that had been set within reach of this port.
We then dodged the Vrouwezand sandbank before setting a course for the Enkhuizen approach channel, navigating inside the Krabbersgat barrier and then turning right into the Buitenhaven. After raising the lady bridge-keeper on VHF 12, we then turned right again to pass under the Drommedaris lifting bridge to enter and moor up in the Oude Haven.
We moored lady Martina towards the north-west corner of the Oude Haven alongside a grassy bank where there was plenty of power and water and Icon moored more centrally on the northern bank, finding their own space. Upon arrival, they invited us to join them for beer and, because Maggie fancied some kibbling, she guided us towards the fish handel she had been recommended to, Thomas Kilda and son opposite the moorings, where we all enjoyed lunch. This Fish-handel sells fresh fish neuwe herring and eels in season as well as fresh and fried mussels. Kibbling is also served either with chips or salad which was a combination that suited all of our tastes and I will now be recommending it as an alternative eating place for the venue.
The showers continued for most of the afternoon until the sun came out for much more pleasant evening, but it was still very warm and humid giving credence to the forecast of thunderstorms that are expected tomorrow. Kathleen and I took a walk to the VVV tourist office to get a map and sticker, but we deferred a visit to the extensive Zuiderzee museum until the following day and relaxed on the boat instead.
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Saturday 13th July Ref: 2019/20
After two days in Enkhuizen, we set off at 8.30am, as soon as the Drommerdoris Bridge opened and could be radioed on VHF channel 12 and then we approached the Naviduct Krabbersgat and moored up until they locked us through with a few other vessels. Having left the Ijsselmeer and joined the Markermeer, we cruised closely and steadily around the Appelhoek and De Kleiput headlands until we approached Hoorn. We entered the Binnenhaven to find a used boat show along the main quay and a special festival on the grassy north bank, but we first moored up for free water before rafting up with Ikon.
Chris from Ikon had suggested that we call in on Hoorn early today, in order that we might enjoy the Saturday summer market there and we had intended to leave as early as 8am, but I had read ANWB Book 2 that the opening time was 8:30 AM, and that’s what it proved to be. This allowed me a little time to walk to the baker’s to buy four fresh croissants but I did not have time to get my 'marina card' topped up in order for us to take on more water.
As the opening time approached, I made a radio call on channel 12 to request the bridge opening and received a cheery acknowledgement that they would do so in 5 to 10 minutes, but it was more like 15 before the lights went red and green and the barriers started to move. After cruising slowly through the outer harbour, we set off across the channel towards the Naviduct Krabbersgat in company with several other vessels and then moored up in this vast lock before the sluis-keeper close the gates.
There was hardly noticeable change of level, before the other gates were opened but the keeper either forgot or could not turn the lights green and all the boats waited in vain to leave. It was only when he closed the gate and then open it again, following at least one radio message from me, that the lights went green we were able to continue. I led the flotilla out of the sluis into the Markermeer, cruising slowly at about 6 kn but fast enough to leave all the sailing vessels behind us as I rounded both the Appelhoek and De Kleiput headlands quite closely and turned towards Hoorn.
Once we arrived in Hoorn, we cruised through to the Binnenhaven and across to the water berth where, to my surprise, I found a vessel permanently moored there with a 'no morning' sign across it’s beam! After my message on the loudhailer, the harbourmaster came across and invited us to moor against this vessel and take in the water that we required and it transpired that this was just one boat in a whole range of other boats that were moored along that bank in some kind of used boat sales event.
The only moorings for visiting boats were on the other, Northern grassy, bank, where other boats were leaving which gave us the gap for Ikon and Lady Martina to moor alongside each other. The rain was still falling, as thunderstorms had been forecast but fortunately avoided, and time was moving on and so both Kathleen and Maggie had gone off to the market to do some shopping whilst the rest of us sorted out the boats and moored them securely.
On our bank, there was another festival of sorts with various events and catering and music. Whilst the girls were away, I had coffee on board Ikon with the guys and we had a good chat, before they too left for the market. I then took a short walk along the food booths, choosing a smoked eel sandwich for my own lunch. Later on, the music was turned up, there were many events including some ‘dragon boat’ racing but I just enjoyed entertaining the others on board Lady Martina and writing my journal.
Kathleen and I had made another foray into town to choose and buy a replacement electric kettle for the one that had failed a few days ago and, after I had replaced its power cable for an English three pin version, it worked very well and the boat’s electrical system coped well with its high wattage to give us a fast boiling experience.
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Sundday 14th July Ref: 2019/21
Cruising from Hoorn, the Hoornse Hop bay, south across the Markermeer through to Amsterdam, experiencing some windy weather but safely mooring up at Sixhaven in the 15m vessel boxes. Then taking a walk around Amsterdam and buying a few items and some pizza dinner before returning to the boat, catching up with the Ikon crew, and then struggling with various equipment problems to cope with
I had agreed with Chris on Ikon that we would leave at 10am this morning for Amsterdam. We had previously discussed the idea of going elsewhere, but I explained that the weather window for returning to England soon be upon us and we need to be situated in Amsterdam ready to take advantage of it.
I called Kathleen at 9am and then, after 10 minutes drinking our morning tea, we hurried to get Lady Martina ready for the trip. Some wind was forecast and so I took the precaution of getting her help me to roll up the porch canopy before we left. All was well at first and the weather was calm to begin with but, whether it was because we had left the shelter of the South coast of Hoorn, or whether the wind picked up as soon as we cleared the Hoornse Hop bay, it rose from a few knots to over 20 directly from the North.
Fortunately, the wind being right behind us, it was not a problem but there were ‘white horses’ and streaming foam in the middle of the Markermeer until it then calmed down again as we approached Amsterdam. I had a further problem today, which was Lady Martina failing to get up to 8 knot speed through the water with the engine speed of 1300 rpm and, after conferring with Chris on Ikon, I took his advice and reversed the engines as his diagnosis of me carrying a raft of weed with me was proved correct. He also had one of his propellers juddering and repeated the procedure to solve it for Ikon. He told me that last year the weed was so bad around Hoorn that the port was closed to both departures and arrival for some time until it was cleared.
Upon arriving in Amsterdam, we locked through the Oranjesluis and then made towards Sixhaven. It was on this trip, that I received a radio call from the crew of 'Great Escape', another British Broom motorboat which had just just arrived from England and were going to spend some 10 weeks in the Netherlands or ‘until the money ran out’.
We cruised on and into a very busy Sixhaven, where we eventually found separate spaces and could start our Amsterdam visit. The crew of Ikon wanted to rush off to the top of a very tall building where a ‘swing experience’, was installed for a thrill, but it did not interest us so Kathleen and I walked around the City.
We took refreshment in the form of a beer at the café by the tourist office opposite the main station and then, after our walk around the city, we treated ourselves to a pizza which we sat and ate it alongside the tour boat station. Tired, we returned to Sixhaven and Lady Martina, where we had a brief chat to the others on Ikon (who were watching their splendid satellite TV) and then came back to the boat for the night.
