Lady Martina - 2016

Waterland

2016-05-28T15:37:14+00:00

Waterland is a recent name adopted by a region of North Holland centred on the town of Monnikendam but mainly taking in Edam and the villages of Marken, Uitdam, Broek in Waterland, Ilpendam, Watergang, Katwoude and Overleek. Featuring well-preserved buildings, open peat meadow landscape countryside which has been granted National Heritage status

Our route out of Amsterdam from the Noorzeekanaal takes us up and along the West Coast of the Markermeer, taking in the fascinating principal venues of Marken, Edam, Hoorn and Enkuizen; all former traditional coastal ports before the isolation of the meres from the sea. Also a brief stop at Volundam en route to Edam

Part 1. Amsterdam to Marken http://www.ladymartina.com/cruise-logs/2016/east-coast-cruises-10/lowestoft-ijmuiden4-3/amsterdam-imarken-4

Part 2. Marken to Monnickendam see http://www.ladymartina.com/cruise-logs/2016/east-coast-cruises-10/lowestoft-ijmuiden4-3/marken-monnickendam-5

Part 2a. Monnickendam to Broek in Waterland and back by bicycle http://www.ladymartina.com/cruise-logs/2016/east-coast-cruises-10/lowestoft-ijmuiden4-3/marken-monnickendam-6

Part 3. Monnickendam to Volendam see http://www.ladymartina.com/cruise-logs/2016/east-coast-cruises-10/lowestoft-ijmuiden4-3/monnickendam-to-volendam-2

Part 4. Volendam to Edam see http://www.ladymartina.com/cruise-logs/2016/east-coast-cruises-10/lowestoft-ijmuiden4-3/monnickendam-to-volendam-2

Part 4a. Lay Day in Edam see http://www.ladymartina.com/cruise-logs/2016/east-coast-cruises-10/lowestoft-ijmuiden4-3/layday-in-edam-4

Amsterdam to Marken

2015-04-30T19:23:00+00:00

Thursday 26th May Ref: 2016/5

Cruise of 17nm out of Sixhaven, Amsterdam, along the NoordZeeKanaal to the Orangesluisen lock, under the Schellingwoodebrug bridge,up the West Coast of the Markermeer, past the Marken lighthouse and around the 'island' to take the weed-free approach channel to the delightful moorings of Marken

{gallery}2016/amsterdam-marken{/gallery}

This was a lovely day cruising in the sunshine from Amsterdam into the Markermeer and then around Marken Island to berth in their harbour right next to shell beach so that Max could have a swim to cool off. We then took a nice walk through the resort and sat with Max as he had a bone and us a beer!

My night was reasonable but I was up before 6am, despite the sleep I had been missing lately. I was able to walk Max with a little difficulty and the return to the boat to start to get us organised for the cruise ahead today. I had considered various options but opted to take the 18nm, three hour, journey to Marken as I thought that Kathleen would like it there and that proved to be absolutely right.

It was a steady cruise but the wind was light and on the bow and so it was very comfortable the whole time. I brought Lady Martina into harbour and right alongside the harbour wall so that, once we were all secure, I could let Max out of his box and to start swimming to cool down on the adjacent shell beach. I threw the ball into the sea around ten times, by which time he was very wet and quite cool and then, this done, we secured Lady Martina and then took a walk together.

We ended up on the terrace of a bar overlooking this old fishing harbour and enjoyed a beer as he enjoyed a rawhide ‘bone’. We stayed for some time, gave Max another walk or two, and then put him to bed for the night. Later on, the harbourmaster came by and only charged us some €31 for two night’s stay; that price including free 10amp electricity, water and WIFI. Kathleen did some washing and I put up the line to enable it to get almost dry in the evening’s sun and breeze and then we came inside to carry on working.

19-25degF, 71-41%RH, 1016-1015mb pressure steady, fine, sunny and calm

Marken to Monnickendam

2015-04-30T19:23:00+00:00

Saturday 28th May Ref: 2016/6

Another warm and sunny day with not too much wind for our calm, easy and short half hour passage for the 3nm from Marken across the Gouwzee to the only town in Waterland; the old settlement of Monnickendam. We moored up there at JH Waterland in preference to the Gemeentehaven for un-metered ample power, water and electricity.

{gallery}2016/marken-monnickendam{/gallery}

We moored up there at JH Waterland and then took our first orientational cycle rides around this historic town which is full of old buildings, harbours and features. When last I was here, we stayed at the Gemeente Haven, which was cheaper and I tied up there at first this time and took a good look at the electricity supply but it was metered and perhaps even not functioning and so we put in to JH Waterland opposite which was relatively expensive but with free electricity, water and WIFI. By this time, the day had become really hot and it was difficult to keep Max cool and out of the sun, now he was away from his Marken beaches!

We took three bicycle rides in all; the first one taking in the centre as we just caught the closing Saturday market and bought some smoked eel and nieue harings, which were delicious to eat as an afternoon snack with salad. The next outing was an attempt to hear the ladies' choirs sing in the big church free concernt but we had misunderstood the guidance that they were finishing at 6pm and not starting! We made up for it by taking drinks of coffee and ice creams by the old harbour; me having some cinnamon apple tart and cream with my vanilla ice cream!

Eventually back to the boat for cool of the evening, when my air conditioning could be switched off as no longer being needed. I paid the marina fees which amounted to some €26 per day for two days and we then relaxed on board for the evening, listening to the world's oldest historic carillon bells ringing from the attractive tower.

28-30degF, 61-43%RH, 1013mb pressure steady, fine, sunny with slight 10kn breeze

day trip Monnickendam to Broek in Waterland and back by bicycle

2015-04-30T19:23:00+00:00

Sunday 29th May Ref: 2016/6a

A cooler day with a little light rain in the air for cycling the 8km or so from Monnickendam to Broek in Waterland and back. Not easily possible by boat, the bicycle (or 'fiets') was our chosen 'vessel' for the day

{gallery}2016/monnickendam-broek{/gallery}

After first taking advice from the tourist information office, we found a cash machine nearby and then visited the nearby museum. There is lots of local information about Waterland and the big feature here (as elsewhere) was the great storm and flood of 2016, which is just 100 years ago this year and even dwarfed the 1953 floods by its ferocity and effects; there being storm force 10 winds to accompany the high water levels. which demolished buildings and took 15 lives.

Then some coffee at a nearby bar before back to the boat to collect Max and start that long cycle ride. Being difficult to access by boat, the bicycle is the ideal way to visit this wonderful old town of Broek in Waterland and we were not disappointed. The preferred route is out of the town to the main road and then across it under a tunnel to take the very long and open cycle route across the polder. Max loved running along besides us and was very good at avoiding the wildlife.

Upon arrival, the beautiful old Protestant Broeker church was attended by a helpful man whose name was pronounced Ayco (probably spelt much different) and he was a very thoughtful and devoted helper in Broek manning St Nicholas Protestant Church this Sunday. His helpful guidance concerning the history of the settlement and the church was matched only by his very perceptive take on modern life and human nature. Thankfully, he had detected a movement back to social values and caring for each other as a welcome relief from the modern self-centred and pre-occupied society. Some very uplifting experiences!!

The ride back was the more difficult with the presence of rain in the air and a very strong headwind but we made it and were pleased to rest back on board Lady Martina.

Monnickendam to Volendam

2015-04-30T19:23:00+00:00

Monday 30th May Ref: 2016/7

A cooler, duller and windy day with the fresh northerly breeze of up to 28 knots making the prospect of a cruise up the Gouwzee quite interesting. Lady Martina, however, was more than equal to it as we pulled out of the the shelter of the Hoek van de Nord and made our way north towards Volendam

{gallery}2016/monnickendam-volendam{/gallery}

There was an early part of passage with the beam sea on the port side as we made our way east away from Monnickerdam and along the channel until the red/green 'fairway' buoy that marks the junction of the Marken channel when we then turned North and had the short sea on our nose as we cruised slowly at around 6 knots up to the Volendam channel.

It was a beam sea again as we turned West and cruised along the channel and into the harbour where, not being able to find a berth on the North or East walls, i called VHF 71 and spoke to the harbourmaster who directed us to a berth right under their office and in the middle of the shopping promenade. It was right in front of the 'pump-out' station but they did not seem to be concerned about that and said that this was 'seldom used' which was a bit worrying!

There was ample time to take Max ashore to accompany us on a walk along this harbour front of this popular tourism venue before we paid our mooring fee and settled down with beers, cheese and biscuits to enjoy a relaxing afternoon. I then paid the marina fees which amounted to some €22.45 for the single day which included electricity and WiFi

18-23degF, 77-66%RH, 1005mb pressure steady, overcast, dry, with fresh 20-30kn northerly breeze

Volendam to Edam

2015-04-30T19:23:00+00:00

Tuesday 31st May Ref: 2016/8

We had a fine, warm and settled day for our cruise to Edam from Volendam. The wind had dropped and the Gouwzee was calm and not a challenge as I kept to the buoyed channels leaving Volendam and then did the same approaching Edam.

{gallery}2016/volendam-edam{/gallery}

The zeesluis (lock) into the canal was immediately available for us with just a 30cm drop, but the lifting bridge was on ‘off-season’ schedules, just five per day, and we narrowly missed the 10.30am one and had to wait two hours to the next one at 12.30pm. A nice cruise followed along to the centre of Edam and then a very good mooning within reach of the single power supply and water with some shady trees for Max to shelter under on his tether.

Upon arrival at Edam, we had that two hour wait for the Ooster-of Kettingbrug bridge which was most unlucky. We were only a very few minutes late and the next day (which would be June) it would open every half hour! Nevertheless, after our long session cleaning and polishing Lady Martina last night, today we used this two hour delay to clear out the bridge by tying Max up ashore and taking his box out and cleaning all around.

It was very hot when we got to Edam and Kathleen was quite overwhelmed by the heat as I assembled the porch canopy irons and then rigged the cover to keep us in the shade. Some nice walks and drinks followed. We were fortunate to meet another friendly local man, Jack, who came over and chatted and later invited us over for drinks with his wife Katrina in the delightful garden of house next to the moorings.

21-25degF, 77-31%RH, 1007mb pressure steady, sunny, dry, with light 4-6kn easterly breeze

A Lay Day in Edam

2015-04-30T19:23:00+00:00

Thursday 2nd June Ref: 2016/8a

Duller, windier and cooler day, with rain forecast, and so our sailing delayed but another one enjoyed in Edam, visiting the tourist office, town hall museum and great church and then spending time resting and catching up with things as we rest in this historic place for a third day. There was even time for me to tune up my old Ukulele and play and sing a few songs..

{gallery}2016/edam-lay-day{/gallery}

This gave us a chance to visit the tourist information centre and then take in the major attractions of this fine and historic Dutch town. The Tourist Information lady was very helpful and presented us with much information in English including a historic walking tour of the place. We started upstairs in the Town Hall Museum and with the story of the 17th century ‘Big Girl’ who was 7ft 6ins tall and quite a spectacle until she died aged 17.

Everywhere in Waterland, the museum themes are all about the centenary of the 1916 floods that devastated this area with a storm and deluge and Edam was no exception. The inhabitants brought their cattle into the town for safety and kept them in the Great Church that now had an exhibition of classic and contemporary art with the same bovine theme.

After the draining of the adjacent Purmerand Polder, the sodden fields were best suited for grazing and Edam was a centre for fattening Oxen and cattle which is why its coat of arms has a proud bull emblazoned upon it. It is also tribute to the ferocious nature of the Edam men when fighting the Spanish. The rest of that Town Hall museum was taken up with the tales of huge floods going back many hundreds of years when the deluges were named after the Saint Days that were near the dates concerned. This latest 1916 flood prompted the construction of the Aflutedyke, or barrier blocking off the Markermeer, from the sea and that was the end of such flooding being so common an occasion.

In Edam museum, based within an historic house opposite the Dam centre, we saw the amazing construction of Edam’s oldest house with its floating cellar, cosy kitchen and bedrooms and the poignant child’s room with its painting of a deceased child recalling how child mortality was a feature of those disease-ridden ages. In the Grand Church, we marvelled at the colossal size of this austere Catholic creation and local volunteers were there in numbers to show us round and display used and hand-made articles available to sell for church funds and Kathleen bought a Dutch baby’s costume for her Boat Teddy and me some DVD’s for a euro each!