We spent several days based in Amsterdam, working on the boat and making visits to Den Helder and the northern waterways of North Holland before setting off in the boat to explore the rest of the region. We opted to take the Zaan north through the region of Zaanstad, or "Zaanstreek" as it is known in Dutch. This is a big connurbation north west of Amsterdam that has developed on the site of a 17th century settlement. On the banks of the river an enterprising fellow developed the idea of using a windmill to power a saw mill, and hey presto, boat building skills blossomed in the area. Now the old mills are a popular visitor attraction along with a selection of old cottages and workshops that have been saved from around the area and assembled here, rather like at the Zuiderzee museum in Enckhuizen. We made a stop here to take in the sites and enjoy lunch at ye old Pannekoeken huisje.

The waterway is an easy cruise with a number of bridges opening on request. The only delay being at the Zaan rail bridge where we had to wait for one of the two scheduled hourly openings. At the north end of the Zaan, the waterway links up with a number of other canals and we chose to continue our way north via the Alkmaardermeer. This was still and hazy on another unseasonably hot day with an early bloom of wily biting insects in the air. There are several yacht harbours clustered at the south west and north west corners of the meer and we chose some substantial looking moorings belonging to Laamens Jachthaven/Cafe Restaurant 't Kombuis. Although they don't advertise visitors spaces there was a boat out and we were able to stay for the night.

The next morning we completed the short cruise to Alkmaar on the Noordhollandsch Kanaal, another straightforward passage with only one opening bridge to contend with. There are a good selection of moorings efficiently run by the municipal harbour in Alkmaar and we chose the most central on the Luttik Oudorp. A busy through road runs alongside the Bierkade, where visitors may also lie, and we thought the inner moorings would be quieter.

We were warmly welcomed by the harbour staff, who we had contacted in advance regarding researching the town and as well as helping us immensely with information for visitors, the harbour master arranged for us to be given a tour of the famous cheese market the next day. We were guests of the Cheese Master, who was celebrating 40 years on the market that day, and were shown round with the two celebrity footballers from the Alkmaar team who were in attendance to open the market.

An afternoon visit by bike to Broek op Langedijk completed a busy day, with a tour of the world's oldest floating vegetable market, the Broekerveiling. Now sold only to tourists, the vegetables were originally brought by boat from the surrounding farms and driven straight into the auction room to avoid time-wasting loading and unloading. The farms were located on a wetland area consisting of hundreds of small islands, and the replica auction and a boat trip through the islands is a popular attraction.

Cruising Statistics

Distance (inland): 22 nm

Total to date: 344 nm

Avg Speed: 3.4kn

Duration: 6:30 hrs

Diesel: 30 litres (Refuelled 500l at €0,55/l at Alkmaar)

Mooring: €10/night

Electricity: €0,50/2kWh (16A)

Water: €0,50/100l

Charts

ANWB G Amsterdam-Alkmaar

Locks

Wilhelmina sluis

Bridges

10 opening