We
opted to move on today, optimistic that a town featured in the Insight
Guide as Zeeland's southern most town and blessed with Denmark's best-preserved
medieval buildings would prove slightly more inspiring. Surely the 14th
century Goose Tower alone would make the trip worthwhile?
We made our way north round the island of Lolland and followed the pilot
book's suggestion of taking a detour to the island of Vejro. This tree-clad,
beach fringed low-lying island is apparently one of the prettiest in the
area, but its planned development as a holiday resort has not come to
fruition. Only the new harbour has been built, complete with three tier
pricing structure for berths.
Formerly
occupied by a handful of farmers, the island is now in single ownership
- the only farmer to have survived being the one who opened up a taverna
and took a part time job as harbour master. Of the two other boats in
the harbour one, Maid of Straan, was a CA member - the first British
ensign we have seen since the Sneekermeer. We took a walk on the sandy
beach and then lunched aboard before completing our passage to Vorginborg.
At
the Klappbrücke bridge we had to use the horn signal to encourage
the bridge master to open for us, having received no reply on VHF, but
we were soon through and could make our final approach. The channel was
one of our least favourite types: shallow, with very small buoys, and
littered with a forest of fishing marks. Apparently it is a public right
for each person to be able to lay six fishing nets on payment of a modest
due, so they tend to appear all over the place. We eventually dodged our
way through the hazards and with little more depth in the harbour itself
took the only alongside berth on the hammer head, despite the red cards
which normally signify no mooring. We would probably have been too wide
for the box berths anyway and the harbour master agreed that we were fine
where we were.
The
Goose tower and the surrounding medieval fortress were built by King Valdemar
as a base for raids in the Baltic, and it remains the largest and best
preserved fortress tower in Denmark. The name comes from the golden goose
which tops the tower, which the King used to symbolise the German Hanseatic
towns - cackling but harmless - which at that time were the main enemies
of Denmark. A more nautical highlight of a trip to Vordingborg is a visit
to the Masnedø MarineCenter on Masnedø (island) - www.mmc.dk
- a well stocked chandlery with an even more extensive range available
by mail order. A 15 minute bike ride from the Nordhaven it is also accessible
by boat (just east of the Klappebrücke) and there is a self-service
diesel pump which takes credit cards at Kr 8,06 / litre (~80p).
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Cruising
Statistics
Distance:
53 nm
Total to
date: 760 nm
Avg Speed:
6 knots
Duration:
8:30 hours
Diesel:
71 litres
Wind: S
2-3
Mooring:
Kr.135/night
Electricity:
Included
Water: Included
Bridges
Klappebrücke
(lift)
Charts
NV Serie
1 - S11A
S1
S11
NV Serie
2 - S17
S18
S19
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