The Baltic was now tantalisingly close and after a useful day in Rendsburg catching up on chores we planned a long days cruise which would see us complete the canal transit and make a passage across the Kieler Bucht to the Danish island of Lolland. Connected to Sjaelland via Falster by a series of bridges, this southerly landfall has traditionally been a port of entry and would be our first port of call.

Apart from a brief encounter with a cross-canal ferry who decided to deviate from his usual backwards and forwards routine and head straight down the canal at us, it was a peaceful transit along to the locks at Holtenau. Here we had to run the gauntlet of the very low floating pontoons (completely devoid of bollards) and then get ashore and navigate up to the second floor of the labyrinthine harbour building on the lock island. Here we paid the very reasonable €35 transit fee, and were informed that the famous Kapt. Stegmann's chart agency, where we had planned to make a stop, would more than likely be closed, it being Sunday and all.

Fortunately, a "Schiffsausrüstunger" on the northern side of the lock was open for the sale of assorted chandlery and convenience food items and, as it happened, the third NV folio of the Baltic which we had omitted to buy in Amsterdam. Suitably equipped we were able to make our way into the Kieler Förde and celebrate our arrival in the Baltic. The weather had at last taken a turn for the better and a modest southerly force 2-3 was bringing warm air and a refreshingly glass-like sea. With no tides to speak of, it was more like cruising on a huge lake than a sea.

Nakskov is a happy little town blessed with not one, but two late night launderettes - quite pleasant if you like out of the way places, and we certainly had to go out of our way to get there. The buoyed approach channel is six miles of narrow and tortuously winding buoys, neatly presented with what looked like colour-coordinated and appropriately shaped loo brushes stuck on top.

On arrival we moored up at the town quay, conveniently situated next to the public toilets, although we declined the assistance of four enthusiastic young guys none of whom, we soon realised, was anything like a harbour master. Being a Sunday evening the harbour office was closed but we availed ourselves of the water and electricity all the same. A cycle tour of the town revealed that not much happens in Nakskov on a Sunday evening, or perhaps at all, and we were not tempted by any of the numerous pizza places, dimly lit bars or even the Istanbul Restaurant, complete with linen napkins.

Cruising Statistics

Distance: 68 nm

Total to date: 707 nm

Avg Speed: 6 knots

Duration: 11:15 hours

Diesel: 86 litres

Wind: S-SE 2

Mooring: Kr.140/night

Electricity: Included

Water: Included

Bridges

Rade (42m)

Suchsdorf (42m)

Holtenauer (42m)

Locks

Holtenau

Charts

NV Serie 1 - S2

S3

S1

S11