After a week's exploring Amsterdam we were ready to move on today, for our first experience of cruising on the IJsselmeer to Edam. This large lake was created in 1932 by the building of the 16 mile long Afsluitdijk (Barrier Dam) at the entrance to what was then known as the Zuiderzee. The inflow from the River IJssel led to its desalination and it now provides the area's water supply, as well as preventing flooding. The formation of a huge area for sheltered inland cruising is a happy coincidence and makes the whole area a popular watersports centre. Access from Amsterdam is via the huge Oranjesluis complex on the east side of the city, which provides a dedicated lock for leisure boats that operates all day. Once through the lock, the Schellingwouderbrug prevents little obstacle with 8m clearance under the fixed span, or three opening times per hour for yachts.

It was a pleasant cruise across the meer, following the well buoyed Pampus channel and then turning north east to hug the western side of the lake. There was barely a ripple on the water, and we passed close by the Marken lighthouse. The island fishing community here was isolated for eight centuries before a causeway connected it to the mainland in 1957. The approach to Edam is narrow, but quite accessible, and once inside there is a lively holiday atmosphere, with a marina on one side and a lakeside camp site on the other.

We opted to continue on through the tiny Zeesluis into the inner harbour, paying our €1 "sluisgeld" in return for a leaflet on Edam - Cheesetown. The Kettingbrug which leads into the Nieuwe Haven opens only on the half hour, so we were lucky to have arrived at 25 past and the bridge operator arrived promptly by bike at the appointed hour. The manually operated bridge leads to a stretch of canal where moorings are available, although the only facilities are water, electricity and rubbish bins.

By chance we had again timed our visit to coincide with the weekly cheese market (every Wednesday in summer), and this time we were up promptly for the 10.30 start. The traditional ceremony of the hand clap bartering is used to agree a price between farmer and merchant and then the cheeses are taken to the scales in the weighing house. The festivities draw crowds of locals and tourists alike and a commentary was given in English, French, Spanish and Italian for the benefit of the assembled throng. The need for the farmer's market died out in 1922 with the appearance of cheese factories, but its modern reincarnation seems to have an enduring appeal.

Cruising Statistics

Distance: 18 nm

Total to date: 1065 nm

Avg Speed: 6 knots

Duration: 3 hours

Diesel: 60 litres

Wind: ESE 1/2

Mooring: €12

Electricity: €0,50 meter

Bridges

Schellingwouderbrug (8m)

Kettingbrug (lift)

Locks

Oranjesluis

Edam Zeesluis

Charts

1810.2

1810.3

1810.5

ANWB Waterkaart G