Our first job this morning was to fill up the water tank, as the only tap available was out of range of our mooring. We negotiated the three bridges and the lock to leave the Gouda canal system and turned north to continue our passage on the River Gouwe. We were pleased that we could pass under the railway bridge as the next opening was posted as 13.13, one of only four scheduled openings for the day. At the Coenecoopbrug we couldn't raise any response on VHF, telephone or horn, and it was only by ringing round all the neighbouring bridges that we eventually managed to raise the bridge keeper. Being a Saturday there were lots of small boats and yachts on the waterways and the bridge keepers seemed keen to group boats into convoys. At the Gouwesluis bridge, despite the name, there is no lock to negotiate, and the neighbouring rail bridge stands permanently open during the hours of service.

We turned left here into the Oude Rijn which goes through the centre of Alphen an de Rijn. Here we found market day in full swing and we stopped for lunch at the free ANWB moorings by Alphensebrug. We were conscious of the evening and Sunday closure of most of the bridges and so had to forego the Avifauna International Bird Sanctuary, where 10,000 birds live in gardens which recreate their natural environment. At Kouderkirk an de Rijn the river is lined with houses, each with its day boat moored outside, or hanging from the end of the garden.

Beyond here the river passes a retail complex on the outskirts of Leiden before reaching the Leiderdorp bridges. We crept under the A4 road bridge with about 20cm to spare, and were relieved when the remaining three bridges opened prior to their 6pm closing time. The yachthaven at Zijlzicht, recommended by our guide for visiting Leiden, is some distance from the centre and mainly populated by the ubiquitous day boats built on site, as well as little used yachts.

From Zijlzicht it is a 20 minute cycle into the centre of Leiden, where some fine weather had brought out the crowds. Bands and dancers had set up on barges around the Hoogstraat where the junction of two canals forms a focal point to the city. The nearby Corn Exchange bridge, with its Neo-Classical roof, forms an attractive backdrop to the waterside bars. We found a city centre yacht haven to the west of the Schrijversbrug which offers an alternative mooring for those wanting to be nearer the action.

The 12th century Burcht was built as a fortress but it was rarely called into active service and the circular wall and battlements are still intact. The wrought iron gate at its entrance is decorated with the arms of the city's former mayors.

Cruising Statistics

Distance: 17 nm

Total to date: 1019 nm

Avg Speed: 5 knots

Duration: 3:15 hours

Diesel: 44 litres

Mooring: €12

Electricity: Included

Bridges

Pottersbrug (lift)

Rabatbrug (lift)

Steve Bikobrug (lift)

Gouda rail(6.8m)

Coenecoop (lift)

Waddinxveen (lift)

Boskoop (lift)

Gouwesluis (lift)

Swaenswijk (lift)

Alphense (lift)

Kon. Juliana (lift)

Albert Schweitzer (lift)

Kouderkirk (lift)

Leiderdorp A4 (5.4m)

Leiderdorpse (lift)

Spanjaard (lift)

Zijl (lift)

Locks

Ir. de Kock van Leeuwen

Charts

ANWB Waterkaart H