We had originally chosen the Willemdok at Antwerp in order to be able to leave at low water, rather than the high water only entry and exit of the Linkeroever Yacht Haven. This would enable us to carry the tide for our return cruise up the Schelde river to Gent. However, this would mean running the gauntlet of the Antwerp bridges and locks - not an easy proposition. We managed to leave the Willemdok on the 0630 bridge lifts for the Londenbrug and Siberiabrug, arriving outside the Royersluis at 0700. Unfortunately this coincided exactly with their "spare time" of 0700 to 0800 - when the lock would not operate in order to allow uninterrupted vehicle traffic flow across its bridges. However, we managed to book a slot in the 0800 locking, and along with two huge barges and one other motor boat we were delivered into the river having taken two hours to travel 2km!

We made better progress upstream, carrying the flood tide and gaining around 4 knots at some stages. Whilst underway, and rather too late for planning purposes, we discovered that the ANWB Wateralmanak Volume 2 had a section on tidal differences up the River Schelde, and we were able to calculate the progress of the tide and the best time to arrive in Gent. We quickly reached Rupelmonde where we had previously joined the Schelde, but this time carried on upstream. At the outskirts to Gent we entered the RingVaart canal, a rather uninteresting highway round the outskirts of the city. The lock at Merelbeke marks the end of the tidal section and here we were bemused to be stopped by lock officials, complaining that our waterways license should be stuck on the back of the boat (where they would not be able to see it) and not on the window (where it was clearly visible).

At Krommeham we turned off the ring canal into the River Leie and headed into the city centre, past the yacht club of Gentse Leie Vaarders. Many boats had opted to stop here for the leisure facilities and rural surroundings, but we preferred the city centre pontoons upstream of St Agnetebrug. From here it was just a five minute cycle to the triple towers of the Belfry, St Bavo's cathedral and St Nicholas' church.

Gent is centred around the Lys river and the Lieve canal, although the central parts are closed to navigation except for small dayboats. The old port area of the Graslei and the Korenlei is home to the traditional guild houses - including the House of the Corn Measurers, the Guild Hall of the Free Boatmen and the Toll House - but the business now is of bars and restaurants. A special mention must go to Georges fish shop and restaurant in nearby Donkersteeg, who reminded us that we were getting closer to the sea.

Cruising Statistics

Distance: 49 nm

Total to date: 1940 nm

Avg Speed: 8 knots

Duration: 6 hours

Diesel: 74 litres (est)

Mooring: €10/night

Electricity: €2,50/night

Locks

Royersluis

Merelbeke

Min headroom: 4.2m

Min draught: 1.8m

Charts

Navicarte 23

Geocart 2, 4